
Saturday, Oct. 23, 2010:
First evening in IstanbulThe weather tonight was much like Seattle at this time of the year – breezy, cool, and cloudy. Since I didn't pack a jacket, I put on two shirts and went out for the Rick Steve's “Old Town Back Streets Walk.” Like many Middle Eastern places, evenings here are for walking, shopping, dining, and general socializing. The streets were very crowded with both locals and tourists. After the sun went down, I had several views of the mosques with their floodlights and the full moon in the background.
As I was walking through the Grand Bazaar, I noticed something peculiar. This area of town has covered shop stalls with rows and alleys of imported clothes, shoes, jewelry, and ceramics. Most of the stuff comes from China and is of dubious quality. The female mannequins for sweaters and shirts were purchased in bulk from the same supplier and had exaggerated breasts with pointy nipples. Well, this was just too much eroticism for some of the shopkeepers! So they ground the nipples off – and then some more – leaving a flat circle on each breast. It looked like they were wearing bottle cap bras.
By now, it was 8 p.m. and time for dinner. I went to the Mozaik Restaurant on the advice of the hotel and asked for an Efes beer, a local brew. The draft I had was nothing special. (I discovered the next day that the Efes dark is actually quite good.) For my meal I had the vegetable soup and a “shepard's pie” like dish, with chunks of beef and lamb baked in a vegetable stew, all wrapped in parchment paper. I was hoping for a dish with more spice.
Tomorrow, I do the tours.
Sunday, Oct. 24, 2010: Day 2 in Istanbul
Most hotels in Turkey include breakfast with the room rate. After coffee and a light helping of yogurt and cheese, I got on the Backpackers Agency shuttle bus waiting outside my hotel. Already on the bus was a couple from New Delhi. (I learned later that they had both worked for a while in the east San Francisco Bay area around Fremont, CA.) That was it for the tour – just the three of us! We drove over to the tour agency office to settle the charges. I chose a full-day package for 35 euros. We left the office with our guide, Ms. Dilek Gamurcu, and headed for the Blue Mosque.
Locals call this place the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, after the ruler who financed it in 1609-1616. Outside are six minarets, two more than normal. Inside is a huge dome, supported by four fat columns called “elephant feet.” Windows all around let lots of light into the blue tile interior. As in all mosques, we had to follow the protocols of removing the shoes before entering the inside, covered in carpet for the prayers. People no longer leave their shoes outside. They place them in provided plastic bags and carry their shoes until they step outside. I needed two bags – one for each boot.
After putting on our shoes and leaving the mosque grounds, we walked over to where the Hippodrome used to be. We also saw the Egyptian Obelisk, which was hauled up from the Temple of Karnak in the fourth century c.e. This granite column shows almost no wear! The rest of the morning was devoted to the Topkapi Palace. This is where the sultans and there harems lived and worked from the Renaissance period (1470) to the twentieth century, when Ataturk threw the rascals out and established the Turkish Republic. I was impressed by the collection of relics, many taken from Medina and Mecca when the Ottomans gained control over these holy places. There were swords of King David, pieces of Mohammad's beard, keys to the Kaaba, etc.
After lunch, we continued our walking tour at the Hagia Sophia museum (pronounced eye-ya sof-ya), with its famous dome. The place started as a Christian Church under Constantine, rebuilt in its current splendor by Justinian, remade into a Mosque when Constantinople fell, and finally transformed into a museum under Ataturk. Upon leaving Hagia Sophia, we went underground to the Basilica Cistern. This underground pool is where the city stored drinking water to last them through a long siege. It was very large, dark, and rather spooky. We finished the day with a visit to the Million Stone, where all road measurements started, and then an ancient Ottoman cemetery. Most of the tombs had dual 5-6 foot columns on top of the casket at the head and the foot. Women had flowers engraved in the stone and men had words.
The tour ended and we bid each other good bye. I went back to the Modern Sultan Hotel to rest and check e-mail. About 7 p.m. I decided it was time to eat dinner. (I discovered here in Istanbul that the peak dinner time is 7-9. Perhaps because of the older tourists.) While I had every intention of checking out some restaurants 2-3 blocks away, the guy around the corner remembered me checking out his menu yesterday. After describing to him the kind of meal I wanted – spicy lamb pieces – he showed the menu selection that fit my needs perfectly. As he walked me to the table, he asked if I wanted humus (of course!) and what kind of wine I had in mind (a local and hearty red). Order done, I then dined on a perfect meal. The humus, like last night, was better than what I have had in Saudi Arabia and Bahrain. It was also served with cucumbers and tomatoes. The wine was a cab blend with local grapes I didn't recognize, but similar to malbec. The entree was a log of minced lamb with other stuff. Like sausage without the casing. I placed pieces in a flat bread, cut in quarters and folded. Then some mild chili pepper, some spicy red onions, some tomato, and topped with a couple sprigs of cilantro leaves. Fold the bread over like a taco and enjoy.
Halfway through dinner, some musicians started to play inside. (I was outside.) This was nice. Then the whirling dancers started up, with their flaring coats of white. They would twirl for about 20 minutes, take a 5 minute pause (but not break) and start up again. The one-hour show finished just as my wine was doing the same. What a bonus! I told the owner how pleased I was.
Monday, October 25, 2010: Final Morning in Istanbul
I had a good night's sleep and arose about 7:30. Dressed and packed, I went down the stairs to breakfast. Coffee was ready, along with cheese, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, hard boiled eggs, bread, cereal, and yogurt. I settled my account and left for the tram stop. At 8:45 in the morning, trams were running about every five minutes and were very crowded. After the University station, it was not so crowded. I rode the tram to the end of the line, where I transferred to the Metro line. The airport station was the last stop. Total time from the hotel to the airport was about 50 minutes. The international terminal was very close, but the domestic terminal was a 15 minute walk. (I was warned it would take a while.) As we entered the domestic terminal, all luggage and people were scanned. This is where I discovered I still had my hotel room key in my back pocket. I will need to mail it back from my hotel room in Ismir. Then more walking and up the elevators to the departure level. Check in was very quick and friendly. Another security check of everything was required to get into the gate areas. The seating area around the gates is quite open and spacious. As at most airports, it is quite loud with conversations and public address announcements.